How to Paint Tomb Kings Skeleton Warriors Step by Step

Quick answer

Paint Tomb Kings Skeleton Warriors by working from a light bone basecoat through thin layer highlights, then blocking in metal, cloth, and command details. Use thin coats of Citadel Layer paints like Phalanx Yellow for aged bone and Gauss Blaster Green for verdigris accents, and seal everything with a matte varnish before gaming.

Prepare and assemble your Khemri Skeleton Warriors

The Warhammer: The Old World - Tomb Kings of Khemri: Skeleton Warriors kit builds 36 Skeleton Warriors or Skeleton Archers, plus command units. Because miniatures are supplied unpainted and some assembly may be required, plan your build before you glue: decide whether you want spears, hand weapons, or archers, and keep command models separate so they are easier to reach with a brush.

Clean mould lines with a hobby knife and remove any flash from joints. A common mistake is assembling every model in an identical pose, which makes the unit look flat on the tabletop. Rotate a few torsos and vary weapon angles slightly so the unit reads as a mob of undead rather than a chorus line.

Basecoat the bone in light, thin layers

Start with a light bone or off-white basecoat over a grey or white primer. Two thin coats give better coverage than one thick coat, which can obscure the ribcage and facial detail. Let each coat dry fully before adding the next; if you see brush marks, you are pushing wet paint around rather than laying it down.

Once the base is solid, apply a wash to define the recesses. A brown or sepia wash over bone creates instant depth in eye sockets, ribs, and between fingers. Do not let the wash pool on flat surfaces like skull tops or shoulder blades; wick it away with a dry brush if it starts to puddle.

Layer and highlight the bone with Citadel Layer paints

After the wash dries, bring the bone back up with thin layers of a lighter bone color, leaving the wash visible in the deepest recesses. Citadel Layer paints are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and each other without mixing, so you can build a rich, natural finish by applying several thin layers rather than one heavy coat.

For an aged, sun-bleached Khemri look, use a pale yellow layer like Phalanx Yellow on the highest points of skulls, ribs, and knuckles. Keep the paint thin and aim for a smooth transition rather than a hard line. A common mistake is highlighting every edge equally; pick out only the areas that would catch light from above.

Block in metal, cloth, and verdigris accents

Tomb Kings armor and weapons are usually aged bronze or gold rather than bright steel. Basecoat the metal areas with a bronze or gold tone, then wash them with brown or green to suggest corrosion. For a striking verdigris effect on shields and banners, use a layer paint such as Warhammer Colour: Layer - Gauss Blaster Green over the metal, thinned so it settles into the recesses.

Cloth and wrappings should contrast with the bone. Choose a muted red, turquoise, or sand tone that fits your dynasty, and paint it in flat, even coats. Leave the deepest folds darker and highlight only the raised edges. Checkpoint: step back from the model at arm's length. If the cloth and bone read as the same value, add more contrast before moving on.

Finish the bases and protect your paint job

Skeleton Warriors look best on desert-themed bases. Apply a textured sand or crackle paint, let it dry, then drybrush a lighter sand tone over the top. Add a few small rocks or skulls from your bits box to break up the surface, but keep the base simple so it does not distract from the miniature.

Seal the finished model with a matte varnish to protect the paint during handling and gaming. A common mistake is spraying varnish in high humidity or cold temperatures, which can leave a cloudy finish. Test on a spare model first if conditions are not ideal.

Step-by-step painting sequence

1. Assemble and prime: Build 36 Skeleton Warriors or Archers, including command, then prime with a light grey or white spray. Mistake to avoid: gluing models to bases before priming the underside of robes and shields. Checkpoint: every model should have a smooth, even primer coat with no bare plastic showing.
2. Basecoat bone: Apply two thin coats of a light bone color over all skeletal areas. Mistake to avoid: one thick coat that fills in eye sockets and rib gaps. Let each coat dry completely before the next; if you can see brush strokes when wet, thin the paint more.
3. Wash for depth: Brush a brown or sepia wash into the recesses of the bone, then wick away any pools on flat surfaces. Mistake to avoid: letting wash dry in puddles on skull tops, which creates shiny stains. The wash should darken the gaps, not the raised areas.
4. Layer bone highlights: Using a pale yellow layer paint like Phalanx Yellow, highlight the highest points of skulls, ribs, and knuckles with thin layers. Mistake to avoid: highlighting every edge, which flattens the model. Aim for a smooth transition from wash to highlight, leaving the deepest recesses dark.
5. Paint metal and verdigris: Basecoat weapons and armor with bronze or gold, wash with brown or green, then add Gauss Blaster Green thinned into the recesses for verdigris. Mistake to avoid: applying verdigris too thickly, which hides the metal underneath. Checkpoint: metal should look aged but still readable as metal, not a flat green.
6. Block in cloth and details: Paint cloth, wrappings, and command details in muted red, turquoise, or sand, using flat coats and edge highlights. Mistake to avoid: choosing a cloth color too close in value to the bone. Step back at arm's length; if the model reads as one tone, increase contrast.
7. Base and varnish: Texture the base with sand or crackle paint, drybrush a lighter tone, add rocks or skulls, then seal with matte varnish. Mistake to avoid: spraying varnish in high humidity or cold, which can cloud the finish. Test varnish on a spare model if conditions are uncertain.

Products used in this guide

• Warhammer: The Old World - Tomb Kings of Khemri: Skeleton Warriors: Contains plastic components to build 36 Skeleton Warriors or Skeleton Archers, plus relevant command units. Miniatures are supplied unpainted and some assembly may be required. This kit gives you enough models to practice the bone layering and metal weathering steps across a full unit, with command figures for extra detail work.
• Citadel Layer: Phalanx Yellow: Citadel Layer paints are high quality acrylic paints designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints (and each other) without any mixing. 12ml pot. Phalanx Yellow is ideal for the final bone highlight on skulls and ribs, and the 12ml pot will last through a full unit when thinned properly.
• Warhammer Colour: Layer - Gauss Blaster Green: Warhammer Colour Layer paints are high quality acrylic paints designed to be used straight over Warhammer Colour Base paints (and each other) without any mixing. 12ml pot. Gauss Blaster Green works well for verdigris on Tomb Kings metal, giving shields and weapons an aged, magical look without complex mixing.